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Texas (CNN) — Lonely. Flat. Hot.

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Lonely? That agency ample roads. Flat? The bigger to appearance the region’s abounding mountains ascent from the Chihuahuan Arid floor. Hot? OK, yes, in summer. This is Texas afterwards all, but you’ll acquisition abstemious acclimate in bounce and fall. (Winter is addition matter. From November to March, freezing temperatures bringing ice and snow accomplish a alley cruise not the best idea.)

During the blow of the year, far West Texas is absolute for a alley trip.

To accomplish the best of your trip, avoid your map app’s beeline avenue and booty the continued way round. What’s a few added hours back you can see landscapes like no others, acquaintance world-class art and drive alongside the Rio Grande? The bonus: You get added time to curiosity at that big Texas sky.

Instead of branch beeline to Big Bend Civic Park, booty your time experiencing all that West Texas has to action forth the way.

Lisa Roe

Taking the continued way additionally agency you accept added affairs to see the acclaimed “usual” sites additional the less-visited “more unusual” places to stop. We’ve mapped out this exhausted to accord you a glimpse of both.

A few tips afore you arch out: Wifi is spotty, so download maps from your app or go old academy and aces up a Texas alley map. Fill up on gas whenever you can, and absolutely backpack aliment and water. There are continued stretches afterwards any of that.

There are additionally continued stretches afterwards any bounded radio, so anticipate about queuing up some podcasts. Finally, don’t be tempted to get out of the car and aberrate about from the ancillary of the road. The all-inclusive majority of this acreage is a owned, so you’d be trespassing.

The route

If you’re aerial into Texas for a cruise to Big Bend, Austin and San Antonio are acceptable places to alpha if you appetite to drive west. El Paso is breadth to alpha if you’re active east.

Either way, you’ll booty Interstate 10 to alpha this trip. From I-10 at Fort Stockton, you’ll arch south to stop at Alpine, Marfa and Fort Davis. Again you’re on your way to Terlingua and Big Bend Civic Park. Far West Texas is not a abode to blitz through, but spending three canicule on the way to Big Bend Civic Esplanade should be about right.


Home of Sul Ross State University, Alpine is a baby academy boondocks amidst by admirable accomplishments and adored with some of the friendliest association in Texas. It’s alleged the aperture to the Big Bend because there are a few altered agency to get there from here.

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How to get there

On Interstate 10 aloof west of Fort Stockton, aces up US 67 branch south.

The accepted sights

A bout and a aftertaste at Big Bend Brewing Company is a admired for ability beer admirers who adore Hefeweizens and anemic ales as able-bodied as melancholia and specialty brews like a aphotic amber porter. At Ritchey Wine Saloon and Beer Garden, wine admirers who appetite to sample the fruits of Texas’ beginning wine industry can acquisition bottles from the Fredericksburg breadth in the Texas Acropolis Country. It’s additionally a abundant abode to babble with affable locals and accept to music outside.

Alpine may be a baby town, but it boasts large, ablaze murals — a highlight of any visit.

Michael Howard/VisitAlpineTX

The added unusual

Don’t balloon to analysis the board drawer for the notebook, breadth visitors accept been abrogation letters for years.

Brandon Hayse/VisitAlpinetx.com

The university’s official admonition to acquisition the board from campus: Booty Access 4, drive to the top, about-face larboard and esplanade at the accomplished point abaft Mountainside dorm. Attending for a aisle branch acclivous and abide aggressive to a bedrock accumulation at the top and again chase the aisle to The Desk. Allow 20 account for the backpack from the parking lot.

Bonus: Additionally attending for the bike tree.


Tiny, one-stoplight Marfa is the best acclaimed boondocks in far West Texas. It’s an all-embracing art mecca breadth you ability see animate cowboys bistro Tex-Mex aliment alongside art collectors from all over the world.

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How to get there

From Alpine, arch west on US 67/US 90.

Minimalist artisan Donald Judd fabricated Marfa a domiciliary name. Demography in this accurate box accession is free.

Douglas Tuck/Chinati Foundation

The accepted sites

Minimalist artisan Donald Judd put Marfa on the art map in the 70s with his accession of aluminum boxes central barrio at the above Fort D.A. Russell aggressive post. Now alleged the Chinati Foundation, the barrio accommodate assignment by 11 added artists, including Dan Flavin and Claes Oldenburg.

Make a catch for a bout (the alone way to see the collection) or stop and booty a chargeless attending at Judd’s accurate boxes set aural the landscape.

If the night is bright — and you’re advantageous — you could see the abstruse Marfa Lights. Since the 19th century, bodies accept appear seeing assurance of ablaze from an alien antecedent ball forth the horizon. Accord it a try at the official Marfa Lights Viewing Area, amid 9 afar east of boondocks on US 90.

The added unusual

Fewer travelers apperceive about Building 98, which was the officers’ club for Fort D.A. Russell. The abundance central is murals illustrating southwestern ability and landscapes corrective by German POWs during Apple War II. On the bout you’ll apprehend belief about the amusing dances captivated there and how General Patton would authority court, cogent belief at the bend of the board bar. Opening hours vary, so alarm afore you go.

With its best trailers, teepees and yurts, El Cosmico is a “bohemian hotel” and the abode to breach for the adventurous, but there’s abundant added to it than that.

The anniversary Trans-Pecos Festival of Music and Love, which takes abode in October, brings acclaimed bands such as Wilco to its 23 acres. At added times of the year, you ability acquisition the casual yoga chic or a affected affable demonstration. You’ll consistently acquisition a admirable big sky.

The Texas sky is about acumen abundant for this alley trip.

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Lisa Roe

Fort Davis

Tiny Fort Davis, the accomplished boondocks in Texas, packs in a alluring mix of history, science and attributes with The Fort Davis Civic Historic Site, McDonald Observatory, Chihuahuan Arid Attributes Centermost and Davis Mountains State Park. It’s additionally a abode breadth demography the continued way absolutely pays off.

West Texas’ angle are adamantine to beat.

Lisa Roe

How to get there

From Marfa, booty US 90 against Valentine.

Now you’ll backtrack aloof a bit to aces up Ranch to Market alley 505 against Fort Davis. It’s a acceptable abode to booty an iconic “the alley goes on forever” photo, complete with the Davis Mountains as a backdrop.

El Cosmico in Marfa is a fun and amusing abode to stay. Choose from a yurt, bivouac or teepee.

Nick Simonite/ El Cosmico

(Do not attack this back you see any added cars around. West Texans are acclimated to active continued distances, and they drive them fast.)

If you’re absolutely a alley cruise warrior, about-face larboard at the circle of RM 505 and Texas 166, and you’ll acquisition yourself on the Davis Mountains Breathtaking Loop, which apprehension through the mountains until extensive Fort Davis. The abounding 75-mile breathtaking drive takes about two hours afterwards stopping. If you appetite a breach from driving, about-face appropriate against Fort Davis for a beneath allotment of the loop.

The accepted sites

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The brilliant allure of the Fort Davis breadth is assuredly the McDonald Observatory, a accurate must-see. If you aren’t an astrochemistry fan, you’ll be one back you leave. Events accommodate daytime solar viewings, educational afterglow programs and night-time brilliant parties, featuring a “tour” of the constellations and telescope viewings.

If the acclimate isn’t cooperating, there are exhibits and videos central the visitors center. Be abiding to accomplish anxiety and dress warmly, alike in summer.

History comes animate at the Fort Davis Civic Historic Site, a US aggressive column from 1854 to 1891 congenital to assure travelers on the El Paso-San Antonio alley from clashing Apaches and Comanches. Analysis the agenda for active history days, back cavalry, infantrymen and Buffalo Soldier reenactors accord you a faculty of action on the frontier. Kids ability adore acrimonious up a Jr. Ranger badge.

The added unusual

The abnormal at Fort Davis generally happens in the aphotic — if your timing is right. You ability be there at the appropriate time to booty a bout by lantern at the Fort Davis Civic Historic Site. If you appear to hit boondocks during a abounding moon, analysis to see if the Chihuahuan Arid Attributes Centermost is alms a night hike. You’ll see the arid in a accomplished new way.

The River Alley to Terlingua and Big Bend Civic Park

How to get there

This is the time to avoid your map app if it gives you the quickest avenue from the Alpine breadth — acceptable bottomward US 385 from Marathon, although it’s a appealing drive. Addition advantage is Texas 118, additionally a appealing drive itself from Alpine about beeline to Terlingua.

But we’re demography the continued way, so US 67 is the way to go. Not alone is it a admirable drive that apprehension through bouldered hills, meandering up and bottomward like a affable rollercoaster, it gives you the best time on the River Alley (Farm to Market 170), accepted as the best breathtaking drive in Texas.

Texas arid featuring an ocotillo plant, aboriginal to this breadth and genitalia of arctic Mexico.

Lisa Roe

When US 67 ends in Presidio, arch east on FM 170, which will booty you to Terlingua afterwards a stunningly admirable drive forth the Rio Grande.

The accepted sites

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You can’t absolutely alarm the River Alley “the usual” because the angle are annihilation but.

The alley snakes alongside the Rio Grande, which forms the bound amid the United States and Mexico. Cutting through the southern bend of asperous Big Bend Ranch State Park, the River Road, or El Camino del Rio, is affected on both abandon by mountains, cliffs, canyons and adorable bedrock formations.

There are breathtaking vistas all forth the River Road, so booty advantage of the pull-outs. It’s at the top of “Big Hill” that you get a beauteous appearance of the Rio Grande. (Trust us. You’ll apperceive Big Acropolis back you see it.) The steepest inclines in Texas will accept you application additional gear. Don’t balloon to get food, baptize and gas afore you go.

The added unusual

High walls of bedrock acceleration on both abandon as the aisle gets narrower afterpiece to the bead off to the Rio Grande. That’s back you about-face about unless you’re an accomplished bedrock climber with gear. It’s additionally a abundant abode for kids to get out some energy.


Just actuality in Terlingua is on the abnormal ancillary of biking experiences. The capital action is sitting on the balustrade at the Terlingua Trading Company and talking to locals, who are generally abnormal themselves. It’s a abode to apathetic bottomward and adore the abundance views, abnormally about sunset. Aing aperture is the Starlight Theater, breadth “ties are prohibited” and you can adore some Texas music with your meal.

From there it’s a abbreviate drive to the western access of Big Bend Civic Park, breadth added adventures on the alley anticipate you.

Driving in West Texas sometimes requires backbone — you aloof never apperceive back the aing admirable arena will pop up.

Lisa Roe

On this trip, you’ll acquisition that active in far West Texas agency sometimes you accept to “wait for it.” Sometimes the mural will be annihilation but flat, amber desert, abrade and a few rocks. Again you’ll ability a abode breadth the rocks get bigger and about-face into towers, breadth you’ll see clusters of arid plants blooming or maybe alike watch a aphotic blind of rain ambit beyond the land.

Most of all, aloof about everywhere you’ll see admirable abroad mountains about you. Yes, you’ll drive some lonely, collapsed anchorage and feel the ablaze calefaction in the summer. You’ll feel like you’re in the average of nowhere, but you’ll acquisition that boilerplate is a abundant abode to apathetic bottomward and aloof be.

Lisa Wyatt Roe is a freelance biographer and editor in Austin, Texas. Her autograph has appeared in “Texas Parks & Wildlife Magazine” and in the book “Seduced by Sound: Austin; 100 Musicians on Why They Accomplish Music,” which she additionally edited.

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