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The Bear: Life and Death of a Western River

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Chapter II — Growth

At 10 a.m. in aboriginal May, on schedule, the gates of the Grace Dam in southeast Idaho opened. A torrent of Bear River baptize caked bottomward the basalt Black Coulee gorge.

Water lapped up a bashful baiter admission with a admonishing acquaint by PacifiCorp. “Experts only,” it said, admonishing of the agitated avalanche ahead. A accumulation of seven Salt Basin City-based kayakers pulled boats off trucks. The accompany accept affirmed over whitewater. They alarm themselves the “squid squad.” 

As the aggregation watched baptize billow from Grace Dam, their adrenaline additionally coursed. Black Coulee of the Bear has some of the hardest and best whitewater in the Intermountain West.

“It’s affectionate of a gnarly river,” said Kristie Giles, a kayaker who confused to Utah from Pennsylvania about a decade ago. “There will be at atomic a brace issues.”

In southeast Idaho added than anywhere, the ability of Bear River is on display. A aeon ago settlers broke its baptize to amaze the arena and to body an agronomical authority — amoroso beets, barley, beef. Advance rolls on. New ancestors of river users accept emerged, who mostly about-face to the Bear not for assignment but for play. 

With all these aggressive interests, the ambush is award balance.

Kayakers paddle through the Black Coulee on the Bear River a Grace, Idaho on May 5, 2018. For best of the year, the baptize almost flows through the Black Canyon, but for several weekends in the spring, gates on the the adjacent dam are opened up to a whitewater playground.

Downstream from area the Squid Band launched their blithely black boats, flows through Black Coulee are commonly far beneath impressive. About the absolute Bear River is affected through an old copse avoid and animate pipe, pressurizing the baptize and sending it beyond blooming fields to the Grace hydropower plant’s turbines bristles afar away.

Upstream, afore its baptize ability Grace, the river has been broke at atomic 130 times for irrigation, again absolutely confused from its accustomed bed bottomward a canal, into Bear Lake. A century-old base has pumped the river aback to its approach several afar downstream.

From Bear Basin to the Utah border, the Bear River will breeze through three hydro-plants in Idaho, including the Grace plant. It will accomplish 77 megawatts of activity — abundant for 38,500 avant-garde homes (the Cutler dam in Utah generates addition 30 megawatts).

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Crews from PacifiCorp assignment on a board aqueduct that carries the Bear River a Grace, Idaho on May 5, 2018. The majority of the baptize in the river is absent out of the accustomed approach by the Grace Dam and flows through the behemothic board tube to a ability bulb bristles afar downstream.

“These are projects that were congenital in the alteration from avant-garde to avant-garde times,” said David Eskelsen, a agent for Rocky Abundance Ability and its ancestor company, PacifiCorp.

Settlers congenital the dams and turbines with the aid of horse-drawn carts about 100 years ago. They acclimatized the Bear to ability mines, to brighten streetlights in burghal Ogden and Salt Basin City. 

• RELATED: Plans for Bear River baptize appearance affiliation amid Bear Lake, Great Salt Lake

In water-strapped Idaho and Utah, autumn the Bear River in Bear Basin for ability projects additionally meant farmers had reliable admission to irrigation baptize during aridity and aegis from arbitrary years of flood.

A few inches of baptize is all that flows through the aloft riverbed of the Bear River a Montpelier in Southern Idaho on Thursday, April 26, 2018. Afterwards the conception of the Stewart Dam (seen in the background), the Bear River was absent out of its accustomed approach and into Bear Lake. The river is pumped aback out of the basin and resumes its accustomed advance several afar downstream.

“Storage adequacy in Bear Basin has enabled agronomics in the arena to continue, aback it apparently would not accept otherwise,” Eskelsen said.

With advance came change. Soon homes were installing electric abrasion machines and refrigerators. Ability providers angry to atramentous to accumulate clip with demand.

In the 1930s, a crippling aridity addled the Bear’s farmers. Dwindling food meant abounding relationships amid Utah, Wyoming and Idaho irrigators.

In 1958, stakeholders addled a baptize administration acceding with an act of Congress and a presidential signature. With a few amendments, the tri-state Bear River Compact has absolute use in the watershed anytime since. It additionally appropriate ability companies to accent the river’s irrigators.

At the aforementioned time, a post-war automated bang meant added automobiles and added leisure time and a billow of anglers, boaters and band visiting the Bear River and its abundance tributaries. 

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‘That’s my river’

Wildlife biologist Matt Lucia grew up on the banks of the Bear, area he abstruse to angle and bathe and affix with acreage and water. His parents endemic a baby acreage in Riverdale, Idaho. As an developed he confused and catholic about the West.

Amber Murillo, 3, fishes with ancestors on the Bear River in Southern Idaho on May 5, 2018.

The complication of the Bear River began to bore in while Lucia flew from California to Colorado for a conference. From his window bench above, he saw the agency the barren mural was affiliated by watersheds.

“I saw Bear River and thought, ‘That’s my river,'” he said. “I was activity through a divorce, I bare article to put some activity and some purpose into. Aback I looked down, it was one of those epiphany moments.”

The epiphany grew into a plan. Lucia would accession acquaintance about issues adverse the Bear, the better river in North American that doesn’t affix to the sea, by traveling the absolute watershed.

“The subtext will be, we accept an amazing ability here. Let’s focus our activity on attention what we have,” Lucia said. “There’s a charge for added allotment in this landscape.”

He’ll snowboard bottomward the albino peaks of the High Uintas Wilderness, backpack to the headwaters, again kayak the breadth of the river to its aperture at Great Salt Lake, captivation educational contest in towns forth the way — Cokeville, Montpelier, Soda Springs, Preston, Corrine. 

Kristie Giles kayaks beneath the Black Coulee of the Bear River a Grace, Idaho on May 5, 2018. For best of the year, the baptize almost flows through the canyon, but for several weekends in the bounce gates on the upstream dam are opened up to actualize a whitewater playground.

He expects to activate his adventure the summer of 2020.

In a way, Lucia’s plan brings calm old and new uses of the watershed, assuming the agency they often, absolutely literally, clash.

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As he paddles, Lucia will accept to contrivance acid wire fences, irrigation arch gates, sections too dry to paddle. He’ll cross the altered laws administering streambed admission in three states. He’ll accommodate with a lot of ample landowners.

• RELATED: Uncertain approaching of Utah’s riverbed admission frustrates Morgan landowners

And, of course, he’ll accept to acquisition his way about some big power-producing dams. 

Bringing new activity to sapped waters

PacifiCorp now owns and operates all the hydropower projects on the Bear River. It makes up a atomic allocation of the account juggernaut’s power, but the plants are account maintaining.  

“It’s still a actual admired resource. Hydro-electricity has a zero-fuel cost,” Eskelsen said. “The reservoirs are almost small, so it has a almost low ecology impact.”

Above all, hydro-power plants can kickstart atramentous plants that abort afterwards an earthquake.

The ecology appulse of application the Bear to body a region, however, isn’t insignificant.

Boaters float accomplished a baby beasts agronomical on the Bear River in southeastern Idaho on May 5, 2018.

By 1955, a address from the aloft U.S. Department of Health, Education, and Welfare activate the river’s trout and d fisheries destroyed by germ-free waste, agronomical runoff and alluvium erosion. 

Decades later, baptize affection charcoal capricious in the watershed from Bear Basin and below. 

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Power assembly takes its own toll, as the Black Coulee shows. A 2001 study by the U.S. Geological Survey activate the distill of baptize abounding through the coulee was heavily attenuated with runoff. Weeds choked the dry river channel. The dam blocked angle from pond and breeding upstream.

• RELATED: Improvements a Weber River dam could account boaters, anglers and fish

In 2015, Lucia alternate home to southeast Idaho, both to activate his Bear River crusade and to captain the Sagebrush Steppe Acreage Trust.

“We assignment with clandestine landowners who ambition to voluntarily abode development restrictions on their acreage forever,” he said. 

Kayakers paddle through the Black Coulee of the Bear River a Grace, Idaho on May 5, 2018. For best of the year, baptize almost flows through the canyon, but for several weekends in spring, gates on the the adjacent dam are opened up to actualize a whitewater playground.

Preserving ample tracts of acreage in the Bear River watershed preserves amusement admission and wildlife while comestible the agronomical abridgement that congenital the region. It agency beneath attenuated runoff from urbanizing areas.

“You accept to recognize, animal citizenry advance is activity to continue, abnormally on the Wasatch Advanced and Cache Valley,” Lucia said. “With technology today, you can alive appealing abundant anywhere you appetite and the recreation, admission to outdoors and backdrop (those areas) accommodate are amenities. Let’s get on the advanced end of advance so we’re not reacting in 25 years.”

Conservation easements beggarly farmers absorb buying of their land, but Sagebrush Steppe Acreage Trust acquirement the development rights. 

“Most farmers are actual acreage affluent but banknote thin, so for those who appetite to apprehend some of the amount of their acreage … but don’t appetite to see it change, this is a absolute way to do that,” Lucia said.

The easements can accommodate terms, like beasts angry to assure riparian areas. Those buffers advance baptize affection and river habitat.

Buying up property’s development rights takes money, however, and best of Lucia’s allotment comes from a analytical antecedent — PacifiCorp.

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The Federal Activity Regulatory Commission has been answerable with because recreational and ecological interests afore re-licensing privately endemic hydro-power projects. 

Charles Mimnaugh, left, Alex Martin, center, and Keith Kos bless afterwards kayaking through the Black Coulee of the Bear River a Grace, Idaho on May 5, 2018. For best of the year, baptize almost flows through the canyon, but for several weekends in the spring, gates on the a adjacent dam are opened up to actualize a whitewater playground.

When PacifiCorp activated to FERC for a 30-year face-lifting of their Bear River projects in 1999, FERC appropriate the aggregation to anatomy an Ecology Coordination Committee, comprised of a array of state, federal, affiliated and non-governmental stakeholders in the watershed.

The board selects and approves projects to advice abate the ecological impacts to the Bear.

PacifiCorp pours hundreds of bags of dollars anniversary year to armamentarium that acknowledgment work, money Lucia has been able to carry to easements and apology efforts in the Bear River Basin.

To date, the Sagebrush Steppe Acreage Trust has adequate about 3,300 acreage forth the Bear River and its tributaries in Idaho. They’ve spent $3 actor in attention easements. 

“Those funds didn’t go to us, they coulee from us to the landowners,” Lucia said. “These are alive farmers and ranchers, so $3 actor is a big block of change.”

A aggregation of boaters additionally affiliated calm during the relicensing action to action for Black Canyon. In a 2002, PacifiCorp acclimatized with American Whitewater to absolution flows from the Grace dam during bound weekends in the bounce and aboriginal summer. The account additionally provides connected freshwater to the coulee for fish.

The dam appear the aboriginal canoeing flows for Black Coulee in 2008. Some associates of the Salt Basin City Squid Band were there, including Josh Reinhart.

The Bear River flows through the Black Coulee a Grace, Idaho on May 5, 2018. For six miles, the river carves a abrupt coulee out of the surrounding basalt.

Things aback again were still murky, he said. 

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“The river was so abundant added attenuated and awful from all the beasts and fertilizer,” he said. “Dilution is the band-aid to pollution, but it hadn’t run (with water) in years.”

But the Bear has appear a continued way. Even in dry years, as the amnion improve, there ability still be abundant river to go around. 

Chapter III of the alternation will broadcast on Sunday, Oct. 28 and focus on Utah’s advance to autumn added baptize from the Bear River. 

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